When Nostalgia Moves Forward: SOSHIOTSUKI A/W 2026 Menswear Collection explores nostalgia as a cultural exchange presented at Pitti Uomo.
The power of nostalgia can be creative and transformative, as seen in SOSHIOTSUKI’s Menswear Autumn-Winter 2026 Collection “In Florence” presented on the runway Pitti Uomo. Though staged far from Japan, the collection remains deeply rooted in its cultural origins. For SOSHIOTSUKI, a winner of the 2025 LVMH Prize for Young Designers, returning to Pitti Uomo once again affirmed his position as a designer who quietly observes the past and reimagines it for the future.
At the intersection of two distinct cultures, Italy and Japan, nostalgia emerges as a central theme. SOSHIOTSUKI draws inspiration from the Japanese bubble era of the 80s and 90s, a time when Italian-made suits were popular as symbolized aspiration and sophistication. Rather than simply recreating the moment, he filters it through his own cultural lens. With 98% of production based in Japan, this collection remains firmly grounded in its homeland. Here identity is not understood as rooted in cultural background, but rather as something formed through the accumulation of postures, decisions, and attitudes.
The collection reasserts menswear as something spirited and chic, extending beyond the conventional idea of the suit. More than visual elegance, “In Florence” is driven by meaning, particularly through its precise manipulation of tailoring and the evolving relationship between garment and body. The designer, SOSHIOTSUKI approaches tailoring as a flexible system, one that can be questioned, expanded, and redefined through collaboration. Among these collaborations is PROLETA RE ART, which blurs the boundary between art and clothing, Spanish shirtmaker Camisas Manolo, and Gunze, the Japanese textile company founded in 1896. Works by artist Kota Okuda, a long-time collaborator since 2023 known for his material-driven practice, also appear. A new partnership with ASICS SportStyle introduces another dimension, exploring the dialogue between sport, movement, and body structure.
Despite its classic and minimalist appearance, the collection is rich in technical detail. Peak lapels and shirt collar tips are given an artificial curl through precise pattern engineering and ironwork, introducing subtle movement into traditionally static forms. Oxford shirts are cut on the bias, intentionally highlighting the creases formed when tucked into trousers, allowing the wearer’s movement to complete the design. Vintage cigarette holders, styles as accessories, add a final layer of nostalgic tension.
Ultimately, “In Florence” is not simply about men in suits. It is about how memory can be renewed, how tailoring can evolve, and how nostalgia when handled with care can move fashion forward. With this Autumn-Winter 2026 Collection, SOSHIOTSUKI proves that looking back doesn’t mean standing still. (Text Betsy Kristianto)
