Thom Browne’s collections have always been one to question, mostly so due to the absurd aesthetics it allows mode to explore. And this Resort 2015 collection is no exception. Especially not with those blooming gerbera daisies, posy-filled lineups. An artisan that usually defuses his lines in gray and navy wants to alleviate colors in the form of floral – yet, of course with a twist of Thom Browne in it, semi psychedelic bloom. The silhouettes were manlier that contrasted to the femininely tilted designs, with workmanship still stable as a Thom Browne perfectionist signature. Well, these gerbera daisies from the deli definitely had their chance of fame down Thom Browne’s Resort 2015 runway.
Browne’s expertise in men tailoring created pieces highlighting tailcoats, sport coats, Chesterfields with skirts above the knee with fringed panels, short, flared or style over tight slimming trousers. The 3-D dimensional floral embroideries were the highlight of the collection, however there were jackets with multicolor crocheted flowers, silk sheaths in black and white from constructed flat panels, dense silk jacquards and A-line skirt in floral silk jacquard. The androgynous twist was seen through the traditional layering of corsets on men’s shirts and the odd “white tie” cutaway cropped blazers. The color palettes were beautifully tinted in contrasting gaudy shades on dreamy pastels, creating a movement just like paints on a pure white canvas waiting to be a masterpiece.
One wonder what goes through Thom Browne’s artistic inspirations, but one cannot deny the fascination of his extravagance in the fashion industry. All in all, this lineup was nothing more than just a raise on the bar for Browne’s respected artistic signatures. (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)