Hedi Slimane has been something of a fashion rebel ever since his return to the powerful fashion house, Yves Saint Laurent, and this Parisian catwalk at the Invalides was not one to disappoint. Slimane is in fact a talent whose obsession lays the capability of turning street into high fashion must-have’s of which the industry must get their hands on. Tapping to the music scene originating of Los Angeles, Slimane has given an underground band, Froth, an opportunity gig that has raised their fame overnight, to revere the comeback of grunge and Teddy-Boy style. Aside from Slimane’s choice of unknown band, a gifted punk artist, Raymond Pettibon has had the spotlight for the fashion-collectible invitation of the night.
Slimane is able to create items that seem so classically every-day-ish that they are borderline anti-fashion, such as plaid scarfs, black skinnies and leather jackets. The boys that he has ensemble are foreign as they are notably “boy” bands from Dr. Skinnybones, Rexx and White Room, and yet they were shimmering down the catwalk in Slimane’s woolen blazers, sparkled green dinner jackets and teddy boys-like outerwear. The extreme visibility of English fabrics were as important as the daring classic styles similar of the Fifties, featuring raglan-sleeved woolen coats, trenchcoats and slender suits paired with narrow trousers. Digital tweed, micro-leopard prints and best of all, herringbone that seemed to sparkle as it has been paved in sequins were Slimane’s shining outerwear aesthetics that gave nothing but a cool punk-rock façade. And lastly of the designer’s creation, the classics in the making can be too of khaki capes and full-on-furs pieces, with varsity jackets refashioned with prints and studs. Slimane’s attitude remains linear with black glasses and buckled booth, but nonetheless undoubtedly bolder with such upheaving refashioning to his pieces.
A collection that can seemingly be snapped off of streetwear, and yet that could be quite impossible, as the haute couture alter-ego side can never be ignored, Saint Laurent F/W 2014 is both youthful in energy and yet retro chic in genre. An approachable show, the sales of this highly embellished outerwear will speak for itself. (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)