Meet Irina Dzhus, known for taking inspiration in architecture and monumental constructions, the conceptual-wear designer unveils her Autumn/Winter 2015 collection during Paris Fashion Week at VOID Showroom. We met her at the presentation to look at this creative and conceptual Ukranian-based label directly. DZHUS gained our interest in the first glance because of its innovative structures and unusual aesthetics of the form since “Overground” collection back in 2013. This time she raised “Totalitarian” concept as the red lines of her Autumn/Winter 2015 collection. The idea was came from the technocratic cult propagandised by the totalitarian regimes of the 20th century’s first half. Terrific palaces and awe-inspiring monuments of the period are the hint of the entire collection, as well as the greyscale palette visualised the utopian image of the working class heroine.
Working as a fashion stylist has given Irina Dzhus an eye for detail as well as the foresight and knowledge that every design should tell a story and sell. As a fashion designer she’s quite smart to be able to create both so-called editorial pieces and wearable version at the same times to make the spirit of the collection accessible for media and the customers’ everyday life. Despite the avant-garde, otherworldly aesthetic architecture of the pieces, each garment is highly wearable and designed with an impeccable attention to both sophistication and comfortability. The garments are made of authentic working uniform cottons as well as fabrics typical of the era’s functional fashion, such as woollen knit and felt. Special finishing, such as raw hems and exposed seam allowances, some piped with elastic, accentuates the technological nature of the designs. For the record all pieces here are made of violence-free materials.
Paving the way for technological concept-wear with utility and longevity, DZHUS is a future promising design house. With “Totalitarian” Autumn/Winter 2015 collection, this label has the feel of high art not only in the iconographic styling of it’s presentation but also in the simplistic treatment of the lines in each piece. Irina used geometric pleat to compile a garment which is futuristic and simple, offering us formal ensembles through contructivism. We are sure to be seeing and hearing more from this Ukranian label in the years to come as they translate a strong and simultaneously elegant aesthetic with its designs and inspirations. (Text Teuku Ajie)
CREDITS
Photography Olga Nepravda
Styling Irina Dzhus
Hair and Make-up Irina Dzhus
Model Viera Stankeieva