“It’s about energy, humor and speed,” quotes one of the Proenza boys, Lazaro Hernandez, backstage. And it was definitely an energy, humor and speed extravagant in the New York runway. Hernandez and the Proenza partner, Jack McCollough, had taken this fast and furious collection directly from inspired building insulation of installation by ceramist Ron Nagle’s work at Venice Biennale. Press notes were given “abstraction”, “color”, “instinct” and creativity” as an addition to the ones previously, for as they believe clothes are not made of fun, might as well assemble clothes for fun out of pure imagination and intricate technical skills. These Proenza boys have gathered a splash of colors and patterns in rich and multi-layering to keep the humor as a burst of energy. And nothing more but a change of last season with generous architectural-like couture silhouettes, voluminous and a playful handful of fabrics in jacquard as an explosion of “let’s have fun”.
The inspiration took them to a whole “trippy” experience that resulted in orange and black crackle-printed jacket, a dotted tunic in acid yellow and a peachy wood-grain miniskirt that is definitely psychedelic. Graphic mixtures of black fused with vivid colors of orange, purple, turquoise, crimson and pink, all printed in reminiscent vinyl records and Flintstones-like patterns. These looked priceless paired with single pieces and separated of leather and crepe patchworks. The most favored pieces were the jackets and coats. Firstly, they were made out of spongy and wool jacquards, but what made them unforgettable were the rounded and structured shoulders, full-sleeved and an hourglass-fitted silhouette in exaggerated peplums. Then there were the lace in technicality and flock printed embroidery with bugle beads and all fabrics were finished in flat and matte. But their last look had taken them back to their first collection with a bra-top cut out under the best and an exaggerated flared skirt. “Cool”.
New York fashion week has so far been drowned in monochromatic domination, but Proenza was a ray of sunshine. And it will definitely keep the summer vibe even in the wintry season, taking them to nothing but fun and energetic excitements, following the breath of fresh air of Hernandez and McCollough. (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)