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Marni Spring 2015 RTW

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What better way to spend the halt of Milan Fashion Week than celebrating Marni’s 20th year of fame? Marni designer, Consuelo Castiglioni presented a Spring/Summer collection turning Rotonda della Besana, a renowned 18th century building complex, into a vast flower market. In the spirit of the anniversary, Consuelo highlighted the house’s celebratory DNA, the very essence of a Marni spirit, hence a purely feminine craft of both complex and simple, organic silhouettes. There was a strong approach of injected rawness as a traveller sets to explore the globe, injected in its color schemes of beige, oatmeal, stark white, daffodil yellow and grass green, but the Marni specialty was the crafted and artisanal element.

As that first look made its appearance, of a plain linen shift with raw edges, tied with a judo belt, the evident proof of a new Marni physicality was in store. And it only intensified – the colors became more complex, as do the silhouettes and textures seen through the asymmetric wrap skirts and kimono-styled dresses, giving a flawless lacey apron vibe. The Marni ladies were contented in modesty –or it may seem from the foreparts, as they turn with deep, sensual V-necks at the back, lunging to give that satisfaction to those shy Marni lovers. It is difficult to decide on highlights, what with the accumulation of color and shape volumes. There were pieces of flurry white cotton ruffles, wrapped and layered; cut chiffon, embroidered on canvas, densely piled as “summer fur”; or even the glam leather jackets engaged with lacquered flowers. But one thing was for sure; the notion of the organic quality of Marni was revived through the very concept of the flower market, making a tribute to a fresh new philanthropic Marni.

How was one unable to feel the tingle of flourishing spring in the midst of autumn, in this Milan Fashion Week closing? Referring its collection to the truest core of the house, Marni was able to create a distinct bridge between their past and their future. And through this, Marni was able to create its heritage’s storyline in one catwalk show – bravo! (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)