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Marni Fall 2013 RTW

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“It’s austere but with a romanticism,” Consuelo Castiglioni said of the Fall 2013 collection she sent out in Milan Sunday. The designer skipped her trademark retro looks for a darker and heavier direction this season. Fur was woven into the collection in unusual ways including criss-crossed and wrapped around models’ necks and at the bottoms of dresses. Heavy wools, leathers and tweeds made for a cohesive lineup done mostly in menswear-inspired silhouettes. Prints made a brief appearance toward the end of the show; wintry paint-by-number landscapes and black-and-white scribbles adorned skirts and tops outlined with leather taping. The motifs, as always, had an eccentric charm. Yet with this toned-down, reality-based collection, Castiglioni proved she can deliver a gust of fashion along with that inimitable Marni quirk without relying on them. (Text Teuku Ajie)