If Dior and Chanel had attempted to take the use of vintage finds and inspirations, then Maison Martin Margiela was made for such seasonal trademark. Over the seasons, his or her inspiration going back to the antiques was one that Maison Margiela stood on, with their 1920s dresses and brocade embellishments. This Fall/Winter 2014 was no different – or perhaps, more than different, as the concept is now taken with a romantic spinoff. Inspiration from romance gave it “Artisanal” as a way to call the collection. As always, it was raw beauty that has a clear affinity for high quality workmanship and fabrics.
Maison Margiela took the high road when challenged on vintage antiques, confronted by the original 1910 Paul Poiret brocade vest noted to have been auctioned in at Drouot in Paris earlier this year. Aside from that neck craning objet d’art, the lineup consisted of 50s-inspired silk bomber jackets in Japanese motif embroidery, 18th century-style evening dresses in Van Gogh decorations and all the black lace, exquisite patchwork and rich brocades. As a contrast, Margiela embedded surreal statement pieces to the lineup such as a bustier crafted from a 3-dimensional red lobster (which would have made Elsa Schiaparelli squirm in guilty pleasure) and face-covering bejeweled masks. There were also outfits that came embellished in bottle caps, old Franc coins sewn over sleeveless dress and skirts and bustier crafted from a scrap “I Love You” helium balloon covered in red crystals that heightens the concept of artisanal haute couture. Amongst all the haute couture, the à la Maison Martin Margiela “flea-market”-inspired wearable pieces such as a camel cashmere robracks patchwork kaftan and evening dresses in outlandish colors inspired from the 1950s. The complete Maison Margiela line this season was by definition a patchwork of all flea-market treasure into becoming a work of haute couture.
It was a headway “Artisanal” haute couture show that Margiela created, and it was no fake show indeed. The authenticity of historical vintage finds was crafted in its most raw form, and only could be done by Margiela as their couture house’ backbone. The romantic intake of inspiration was only part of their proof to the industry of their ability to value the continuity of antique crafts along with their Maison Martin Margiela’s originality trademark. (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)