London Fashion Week Menswear Fall 2018: Ones We Watched. Where vibrancy, newness, and fresh takes on fashion conceptualizing became a great part of the equation.
The 11th season of Men’s London Fashion Week began earlier this month, carrying a start to fashion week this year. Many of the British heritage brands as well as the new ones were showcased, where vibrancy, newness, and fresh takes on fashion conceptualizing became a great part of the equation.
Although our attention may have diverted towards the ever dandyish and stylish street styles, our eyes have also shot glances to a few of the designers that took part in the show – giving us a glimpse of what to wear and what’s to come this fall.
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy Backstage © London Fashion Week
This year’s London Fashion Week was interesting; we witnessed artistic concepts that were amusing and definitely placed gayness and flamboyancy into the limelight. And the label that happened to personify this theme well is Charles Jeffrey’s LOVERBOY. Through its eccentricity, LOVERBOY took the opportunity to transform the show for the collection named “Tantrum”, into a work of art. Designer Charles Jeffrey had his past influencing most of the show, creating a spectacular artistic dialogue that embraces pain, anger, and beauty. The show felt more like a celebration rather than a staid runway where models walked up and down donned in conventional pieces, worthy to be worn by potential clienteles.
Charles Jeffrey was voted Emerging Menswear designer of the Year at the 2017 British Fashion Awards last December. For the label, there is a whole new excitement and innovation in it. Charles Jeffrey embraces his queerness and the “myth of gay pride” taking viewers into an emotional roller coaster, where one could almost feel vicariously through the chaos and vulnerability of Jeffrey’s past. We saw the show as a holistic concept supported by Jeffrey’s eclectic and oversized garments. And most importantly, we saw Charles Jeffrey created a life and bubble of his own amid the growing paradigm and expectations of a fashion show.
Another runway show that caught our attention is Craig Green with his child-like energy and influences that also seem like nomadic tents. His clothes felt very makeshift in a lot of ways but we couldn’t lie that it was overflowing with creativity. The garments Green featured were heavily pleated, various fabrics were used in the process, making them feel very organic, patchy but not tacky.
Craig Green Fall 2018 Backstage Photography Jess Gough. Image courtesy of i-d.vice.com
Having been voted twice as Menswear Designer of the Year by international retailers and editors, Craig Green is the opposite of everything pretentious and unapproachable. In every aspect of his FW2018 collection, he was capable of making everything innovative and inspirational, added with his ability to freely play with fabrics and knitwear into the pieces. Craig’s make-shifting concept gives the entire collection a story yet a playful edge that no one else would have thought of.
The pure improvisation of skillfully putting clothes and garments into imperfect shapes and sizes is what makes Craig Green’s collection interesting and full of character. Some of his notable pieces include the pleated sweaters, jackets, and trousers – basically staple pieces that are spiked to a whole other interesting level. The concept brought a certain kind of naiveté to the audience that was capable of garnering nostalgia through every garment and clothes.