For J.W. Anderson, there is such a vague distinction between masculinity and feminism on gendered designs in fashion. His Fall/Winter 2014 was not an exception on his androgynous outlook takes on blurring out the lines between women and men. Whereas his previous collections had a static deconstructed, unlike-human scene, this time round was more on the warmth side, with an aristocratic “King Louis XIV” wardrobe inspiration, that could be easily hung in a woman’s wardrobe as well as man’s. Anderson envisioned an illusion of looking up at oil paintings of an aristocrat on high walls as an idea of elevation through silhouettes, structure, fabric and color that most likely resemble a modern dance number, like Fame, with touches of a higher social rank – aristocracy.
Anderson’s compilation of layered ribbed and multicolored sweaters, with midcalf-cuffed trousers and shiny elevated shoes – to represent the elevation – had a clownish effect, which for him was an avant-gardist fashion joke implementation. He played mostly on the knitwear family, contrasting with asymmetrical tabards and poncho like tops against tailored trousers, splashed in relatively neutral tints with only accents of red, blue and green. It is an unrealistic, daring ensemble fused with J.W. values that have softened compared to previous, on the portrayal of menswear – very few men all over Europe would wear an off-shoulder knit tunic or a deconstructed oxford shirt suited with funnel neck ties. Ruffles down backs, flesh revealing cuts and origami-like folds of fabric of his ensembles gave the Anderson’s men a feminine elegance that only Anderson could envision as menswear experimentation. On top of that, Anderson did not forget the significance of fashion jewelry on his men, what with the leather bags in various silhouettes, chunky bracelets adorning the masculine wrists and brooches on almost every look.
Anderson is labeled as a fashion forward thinking designer for a reason. The average men do not dress the way Anderson has captured his men, and yet the appreciation of his aristocratic-feminine collection is booming through the fashion and art industries. A revolutionary collection that pushed the limits on the cliché menswear attire, and only can be done by Jonathan Anderson. (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)