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J.W. Anderson Fall 2014 RTW

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Jonathan Anderson is a sucker for shapes. Peculiar shapes, imperfect shapes, any type of shapes really, and this collection was no less than his previous shapely-constructed masterpieces. With new silhouettes, proportions and sartorial volumes, Anderson has taken an imperfect seed of muse that is “A woman from the land”, and despite the lack of embellishments, it was an odd species of minimalist that can only be accomplished by Anderson. It was where he relied on subtle details and sculptural cuttings that made the collection perfectly sleek with twists of necklines, sleeves and lengths in humble materials – gorgeously simple tailoring.

The show commenced at a strong stride with collective corduroy skirts, turtlenecks paired with structured sleeves and incorporated bustier. His dresses were long and enveloping as a reminiscent of the medieval times, alongside the twisting shearling on the top or the folded collars. Blousy tops were layered over twisted sleeves and finished with spiraling gored skirts that was a never before seen item. But the romanticism appeared in the tunics with off-shouldered kilter necklines attached to a simple silhouetted grey woolen dress as well as the glamour in raw-made gowns with a twisted shearling sash across the bust. The color palette instilled a neutral atmosphere as to give the folded fabrics to shine in silhouettes and structure. In shoe wear, Anderson has made his women walk in flat and bootie-like forms, essentially minimalist and twisted in design, keeping constant with his garments – monochromatic and uniquely silhouetted.

Though some may seem it was lacking the essential form of a woman in peculiar silhouettes, Anderson created one of the warmed collections with an earthy direction that was welcoming. A fresh designer like him, adding his new LMVH partner, will be heard so many more frequent in the future! (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)