And only when they all thought going “Back to the 60’s” would be such a cliché move. It sure didn’t seem like it for Gucci, not under the hands of Frida Giannini. Remaking Gucci’s glorious days was the essence of Giannini’s program note, after taking a closer look at the house’s archives. Gucci was once the 60’s fashion-boomer due to the leather goods maker family, when it strived to become a supplier for movie stars and jet setters, so why forget the glorious day? Giannini didn’t, especially not the sixties-mod, functional chic and glamorous Op Art classics, seeping through the contemporary prism of sportswear, muted pastels and animal prints. “A longing for precision and clean lines” and she delivered, as the Gucci girls sure looked like they were strutting down a cocktail soirée.
The casual side of Gucci’s heritage was exceptionally celebratory with the dusted-off greens, blues and pinks to match the mod dresses, shaggy outerwear, peacoats and slim, man-tailored pants. It was clean cut when it came to the dresses and belted coats expressing a feminine visage, incorporated with elements of leather either as the bodice of a silk dresses or as the skin of a baby-pink wool coats. Cropped-at-the-ankle jeans, ruffled dyed furs, boxy fur tops, leather trousers and signature accented dresses in embellished crystals made the collection the 1960’s modish mix. Stepping out of the simples, embellished crytal necklines and panels on pleated skirts and the yellow long-sleeved pieces with black leather collars and crystalized bibs were not. The above-the-knee hemmed mod-dresses were a youthful bounce undoubtedly when paired with the knee-high pastel snakeskin or brown leather boots, towering in different altitude blocked heels. Alongside, there were the horsebit loafers, structured clutches and colored aviators that may have given a woman in power to the Gucci girls.
Eveningwear may not be the obvious Oscar-normed dresses but for Gucci, the fall will be springtime of life with this unexpectedly surprising collection. Those 60s-kids have now given a time machine to their golden days by Frida Giannini, and it was all to “dress to please” – plain and simple. (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)