Dries Van Noten Spring 2014 RTW

Teuku Ajie·
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  • Dries Van Noten Dries Van Noten

Opulence masked in darkness – that is what Dries Van Noten Spring 2014 is all about. As a preparation for his career retrospect at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris this upcoming February, Van Noten outstandingly celebrated the art of floral prints, with the upbringing of a “pretty, yet queer” ambiance of men worn over the centuries, last June. This time round, he had transformed the art of florals to the power of volumes in his latest collection where captured the fragile souls of women as they free their souls. Golden lights and the single gentle bass guitar strummed by Radiohead’s bassist, Collin Greenwood, took the ambience of luxury hidden under darkness through Van Noten’s collection. For Van Noten, Spring will be the parade of extravagance in shadows, Byzantine gold, Ottoman tassels and embellishments that set the darkness in feminine vulnerability – within the free spirited souls of Tamara de Lempicka and Loulou de la Falaise. 

A collection filled with dramatically beautiful fabrics, the theme was captured through the use of Van Noten’s range of plain and simple sturdy fabrics such as poplin, calico and natural linen. For a twist of opulence, additional accessories will contrast the shadows of the hardy fabrics with a gold leather vest, assembled with a top cut black velvet with flowing poet sleeves; a gold leather waistcoat worn under a solid calico coat; a rich gold flower-shaped ruffle attached to the corner of a solid black layered top and leather shorts. Inevitably, there is a movement of light and darkness in his assembles.  A combination of the marvelous volume fabrics can create captured in ruffles appearing over hips of a slim tank dress; layers of soft gold ruffles towering over solid black leather shorts. It was as if the fabrics themselves appear to show their true rich self, doubted by darkness – a combination of the rich and the poor mixed in one.

Extravagant with a glimpse of pauperized, the designer himself prepares himself for Musée des Arts Décoratifs with this collection of the contrast of allure and gloom. A perfect union of twilight. From his men’s collection of quirky floral to women’s authentic twilight, Van Noten surely will surprise the industry for his next collection, leaving but no signs of glimpse for his next wonder. (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)