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Balenciaga Fall 2014 RTW

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It is his third runway show as Balenciaga’s captain creative director and Wang has not stopped to proof his position in the powerful fashion house. Feeling more confident than ever, he introduced his approach to the season with his strongest and earliest suit: knitwear. Who knew a pair of knitting needles could be illustrated into such a progression in techno couture? Wang came to a revelation that Balenciaga has absences in knitting throughout its archives, and only Wang can bring such vocabulary into the house. Bringing his flare for glamorous sportswear, the collection was all about imagination and technological innovation that humbled the art of knitwear.

His strongest show yet showcased a line of architectural arcs and folds molded by knit, slicked in latex and embellished in thousands of little glass beads, rhinestones and pearls. Wang focused on classic, familiar pieces – sweater, raincoats, wrap dresses – yet the specialty lies amongst the thin strips of Japanese polyester jersey on rugby-striped dresses and gray woolen shrugs embellished with sea-urchin beadings on necklines. The opening coats were an experimental revelation with the beaver fur panels on trio cocoon-shaped coats felted in wool. The knitting did not halt; dazzling green anoraks with stitches of 3D tire-tracks created out of wool and foam and kangaroo knitted pockets, wrapped dresses in zippered strips with bold graphics intensified and metal chains dangling off hems, a rain jacket in chunky wool of cable-knit, coated in latex gleaming in olive green or black-tinted canary yellow. Though Nicolas Ghesquière was the master of trousers cutting, Wang’s version was a success of its own: lean pants with an odd cutting at the ankle and slim flaring pants paired with his turtlenecks. Needless to say, his eveningwear resembled a ball gown with sweater motif in encrustations of pearls paired with a satin knot-front bodice.

Balenciaga in Wang’s hands is a laboratory for experimental hybridization for the upcoming season. Every piece and garments worn by the Balenciaga crew was a representation of knitting innovation à la Wang’s own witty twists. Keeping up with Balenciaga’s signature rounded shoulders yet stepping up a notch with knitted streetwear – Alexandre Wang’s version of Fall 2014. (Text Nadilla Sari Ratman)