New York-based designer Alexander Wang presented his debut at the venerable French fashion house of Balenciaga on Thursday morning. Wang has been lauded by critics and editors for paying homage to the Balenciaga archives while making the clothes feel modern, and for his use of texture. His collection brought Cristobal Balenciaga’s regal, rounded, 1950s-era couture shapes up to date for a generation that’s always on the move. And result is French couture meets the street.
These were not mere art pieces, they were elevated, everyday wardrobe staples; a black, cocoon coat with 3/4 sleeves and silver hardware; a crisp white shirt with cape-like detail at the shoulders; a pair of black pants with a draped, pleated front fastened with a silver metal bow. Little black dresses and stately gowns with sexy details and open backs. Wang also played with marble prints and marble-like motifs on chemise dresses and fur jackets. There was something veiny and raw about those last few looks, despite the luxe fabrics. More than anything, though, they were wearable and most definitely sellable.
It’s hard to imagine Wang embracing obvious retro over the long haul at the beginning; he may feel compelled to inject a grittier currency going forward. Nor did the show offer the heady thrill of Nicolas Ghesquière’s best work, the brilliance of which brought the house from decades of dormancy back into the forefront of fashion until the designer’s tenure there started to sour. But this is an auspicious start after all, he succeded at creating clothes that not only beg to be looked at and revered, but also to be worn. And that should get the cash registers humming which is what he was hired to do. (Text Teuku Ajie)